Belize: A British corner in Central America
March 2017, Belize
Belize, Guyana and Suriname are the only continental countries, that are geographically within the scope of Latin America, but in fact are not part of it because of the language. As part of the Commonwealth, Belize is English speaking so you will get a different experience if enter by land from the neighboring countries. The country attracts tourists by its Caribbean beaches, ancient Mayan ruins and beautiful nature and wildlife.
After a couple of days in Mexico’s most popular tourist area (Yucatan and Quintana Roo), I am heading south to Belize to visit its Caribbean hidden gems, like Belize’s Mayan ruins or its wonderful Barrier Reef. Just arrived in Corozal – the sixth largest city with 10 thousand inhabitants and district capital of the northernmost province of the same name. It is one of the main entry-exit points in Belize, as another being the one in Cayo province close to the capital Belmopan. Upon entering Belize, you will quickly notice the British influence, as the local currency features Queen Elizabeth II. Take more of them, as card payments are not popular in many areas. As a British Honduras (the colonial name of Belize), the country even used the British pound as official currency. Another interesting fact is their unique flag, being the only one in the world to illustrate people on its design. Two wood loggers on either side of the Mahogany tree hold a beating axe and a paddle respectively.
Corozal
My intention was to continue to Belize City, the largest city, and then visit either Lamanai Mayan Ruins or Caye Caulker and Great Blue Hole. However, after spending few hours at the beachfront Jam Rock bar in Corozal, locals easily discouraged me to do this and stay here. The reason – same places could be visited from Corozal and here is cheaper. I do trust them so here is how I got myself in this small Caribbean town. Being a lone English speaking country in Central America, Belize attracts many expats from Canada, but not only. I met few of them at the bar, so they explained me more about the city. Corozal is preferred place for expats, as its proximity to Mexico lowers the prices in the groceries and waterfront properties as well. This is important, because Belize is relatively more expensive than the countries around due to its higher taxes. Yes, Belize is a tax heaven for big bank accounts, but he taxation on fuel for example is high, therefore the cost of most services. So many residents in Corozal go to shopping in bordering Chetumal, Mexico. The weather in Corozal is the best Belize by receiving less rainfall than the rest of the country, so it is better for foreigners looking for ideal climate. Corozal is painted in light blue, as the color stands everywhere – on the sea piers to the city center. The Canadians I met lived in Orchid Bay, a neighborhood with tropical villas and condominiums on the other side of Corozal Bay, which is preferred for the expats here. However, the Spanish influence in Corozal is stronger, than the rest of Belize. Mexicans from Spanish-descended population came here running out from the revolt of native Maya people in Mexico during Caste War of Yucatán. They brought the Roman Catholicism being today more popular religion than Protestantism, the major one in other Commonwealth realms. The fountain in the Central Park in Corozal was originally donated to Belize City by the Mexican Government just before Hurricane Hattie. However, as the hurricane destroyed Belize City, it was donated to Corozal Town. Hattie is the reason why Belmopan was built as a new capital after the destruction in Belize City.
Caribbean blue
Corozal is located on the Corozal Bay, an inlet of the larger Chetumal Bay. Its mouth is directed southward and buffered by Ambergris Caye, the biggest island in Belize. The caye is inside the Belize Barrier Reef, which is part of Mesoamerican Reef and is the second largest barrier reef in the world after the Australian. The turquoise waters surrounding the island with sandy beaches and its proximity to the Great Blue Hole are among the reasons Ambergris Caye is the leading destination in Central America by the World Travel Awards. The water in the bay is so blue that looks like with a coloring agent inside. The temptation to dive in the bay was insanely high, until the locals showed me Rio Nuevo, or New River, a famous habitat for crocodiles that flows into the bay. It is not a rare some crocodile to enter the bay, so be aware of the floating tree trunk – its most probably a crocodile! That’s why locals prefer to enjoy the view with a cold beer, rather than swimming in the bay.
San Pedro and Caye Caulker
San Pedro is the major city on the island of Ambergris Caye. Its quite easy to get there by Thunderbolt, a local water taxi that runs daily from Corozal. The trip takes around 90 minutes in scenic views around the bay. San Pedro stands next to Caye Caulker, which is the other major island in Belize. Both are very touristic and quite different compared the continental part of Belize. One of the main reason is their proximity to Great Blue Hole, ranked as one of the most amazing places on the Earth. There are high variety of fish species here so it is also among the most popular diving spots in the world. Another difference between these islands and the mainland, is the cost of services. Its crazy expensive on the islands, as for example skydive above the Great Blue Hole would cost you up between $2000 and 10 000$, depending on the number of people diving in your group. Departing from Corozal, it costs about $200 to reach San Pedro by short 20-minute flight, comparing to $50 for the speedboat. Accommodation and food are also overpriced, comparing to Corozal.
Mayan Ruins
Nearby Corozal are located the major Mayan ruins in Belize, which include Lamanai, Cerros and Santa Rita. The best way to explore Lamanai and Cerros is by boat, while to Santa Rita is possible only by car. Cerros is located between Orchid Bay and Corozal Bay, right in the mouth of New River. It is the longest occupied Mayan site in Belize and it is partially underwater. However, there is still a lot of ruins like pyramids, temple, ball courts and even painted masks. Located at the mouth of New River, it was on the path of trade route between inland communities and Yucatán. Moving along the upstream of New River would lead us to Lamanai, a major city in Mayan civilization with large ancient temples. The site has a key location on the New River Lagoon, which is the largest fresh water lagoon in Belize. The other large lagoon is Four Mile Lagoon, north of Corozal on Philip Goldson Highway, linking Belize City and the Mexican border. Lamanai was developed as a trade center with evidences for onsite copper metallurgy, which is incredible due to its antiquity – built in 16 BC. Moreover, it’s the only Mayan site, which was not abandoned at the end of X century, like hundreds of other sites and was still inhabited when the Spanish arrived. Somehow it survived the collapse of Mayan civilization and even drove the Spanish out after a revolt following construction of Roman Catholic churches. The other Mayan ruins, close to Corozal, is Santa Rita Archaeological Site. This site was relatively small, but its being unique as one of the few examples of an Early Classic Period round structures. Mayan civilization had 3 periods (Preclassic, Classic and Postclassic), as the Classic Period has been likened to the Renaissance in Italy. Santa Rita had population of about 1400 people and recovered materials showed that it was well tied into longdistance trade networks.
Corozal
My intention was to continue to Belize City, the largest city, and then visit either Lamanai Mayan Ruins or Caye Caulker and Great Blue Hole. However, after spending few hours at the beachfront Jam Rock bar in Corozal, locals easily discouraged me to do this and stay here. The reason – same places could be visited from Corozal and here is cheaper. I do trust them so here is how I got myself in this small Caribbean town. Being a lone English speaking country in Central America, Belize attracts many expats from Canada, but not only. I met few of them at the bar, so they explained me more about the city. Corozal is preferred place for expats, as its proximity to Mexico lowers the prices in the groceries and waterfront properties as well. This is important, because Belize is relatively more expensive than the countries around due to its higher taxes. Yes, Belize is a tax heaven for big bank accounts, but he taxation on fuel for example is high, therefore the cost of most services. So many residents in Corozal go to shopping in bordering Chetumal, Mexico. The weather in Corozal is the best Belize by receiving less rainfall than the rest of the country, so it is better for foreigners looking for ideal climate. Corozal is painted in light blue, as the color stands everywhere – on the sea piers to the city center. The Canadians I met lived in Orchid Bay, a neighborhood with tropical villas and condominiums on the other side of Corozal Bay, which is preferred for the expats here. However, the Spanish influence in Corozal is stronger, than the rest of Belize. Mexicans from Spanish-descended population came here running out from the revolt of native Maya people in Mexico during Caste War of Yucatán. They brought the Roman Catholicism being today more popular religion than Protestantism, the major one in other Commonwealth realms. The fountain in the Central Park in Corozal was originally donated to Belize City by the Mexican Government just before Hurricane Hattie. However, as the hurricane destroyed Belize City, it was donated to Corozal Town. Hattie is the reason why Belmopan was built as a new capital after the destruction in Belize City.
Caribbean blue
Corozal is located on the Corozal Bay, an inlet of the larger Chetumal Bay. Its mouth is directed southward and buffered by Ambergris Caye, the biggest island in Belize. The caye is inside the Belize Barrier Reef, which is part of Mesoamerican Reef and is the second largest barrier reef in the world after the Australian. The turquoise waters surrounding the island with sandy beaches and its proximity to the Great Blue Hole are among the reasons Ambergris Caye is the leading destination in Central America by the World Travel Awards. The water in the bay is so blue that looks like with a coloring agent inside. The temptation to dive in the bay was insanely high, until the locals showed me Rio Nuevo, or New River, a famous habitat for crocodiles that flows into the bay. It is not a rare some crocodile to enter the bay, so be aware of the floating tree trunk – its most probably a crocodile! That’s why locals prefer to enjoy the view with a cold beer, rather than swimming in the bay.
San Pedro and Caye Caulker
San Pedro is the major city on the island of Ambergris Caye. Its quite easy to get there by Thunderbolt, a local water taxi that runs daily from Corozal. The trip takes around 90 minutes in scenic views around the bay. San Pedro stands next to Caye Caulker, which is the other major island in Belize. Both are very touristic and quite different compared the continental part of Belize. One of the main reason is their proximity to Great Blue Hole, ranked as one of the most amazing places on the Earth. There are high variety of fish species here so it is also among the most popular diving spots in the world. Another difference between these islands and the mainland, is the cost of services. Its crazy expensive on the islands, as for example skydive above the Great Blue Hole would cost you up between $2000 and 10 000$, depending on the number of people diving in your group. Departing from Corozal, it costs about $200 to reach San Pedro by short 20-minute flight, comparing to $50 for the speedboat. Accommodation and food are also overpriced, comparing to Corozal.
Mayan Ruins
Nearby Corozal are located the major Mayan ruins in Belize, which include Lamanai, Cerros and Santa Rita. The best way to explore Lamanai and Cerros is by boat, while to Santa Rita is possible only by car. Cerros is located between Orchid Bay and Corozal Bay, right in the mouth of New River. It is the longest occupied Mayan site in Belize and it is partially underwater. However, there is still a lot of ruins like pyramids, temple, ball courts and even painted masks. Located at the mouth of New River, it was on the path of trade route between inland communities and Yucatán. Moving along the upstream of New River would lead us to Lamanai, a major city in Mayan civilization with large ancient temples. The site has a key location on the New River Lagoon, which is the largest fresh water lagoon in Belize. The other large lagoon is Four Mile Lagoon, north of Corozal on Philip Goldson Highway, linking Belize City and the Mexican border. Lamanai was developed as a trade center with evidences for onsite copper metallurgy, which is incredible due to its antiquity – built in 16 BC. Moreover, it’s the only Mayan site, which was not abandoned at the end of X century, like hundreds of other sites and was still inhabited when the Spanish arrived. Somehow it survived the collapse of Mayan civilization and even drove the Spanish out after a revolt following construction of Roman Catholic churches. The other Mayan ruins, close to Corozal, is Santa Rita Archaeological Site. This site was relatively small, but its being unique as one of the few examples of an Early Classic Period round structures. Mayan civilization had 3 periods (Preclassic, Classic and Postclassic), as the Classic Period has been likened to the Renaissance in Italy. Santa Rita had population of about 1400 people and recovered materials showed that it was well tied into longdistance trade networks.
This article was originally published in The Economist's magazine Bulgarian issue No. 25 of June 2017.
