Costa Rica: Pura Vida
March 2016, Costa Rica
Costa Rica is a nature-rich country with amazing wildlife and beautiful beaches as a background.
Despite its small area of 51 100 sq. m, Costa Rica has one of the largest ranges of climates and climate zones in the entire world. The most popular resorts are located on the Pacific coast in Guanacaste and Puntarenas provinces, where the climate is tropical savanna, hot and try. This is where the tourist go when it comes to a beach vacation in Costa Rica. On the other side, the climate at the Caribbean coast is equatorial, without dry seasons and raining all year round. Inside the country, there are several mountains with peaks above 3000 m., in a strong subtropical highland climate. On the top of the mountains are located more than 200 volcanoes, half of them active. Tropical monsoon winds blow just around the mountains and form one of the tens of different microclimates in Costa Rica. In other words, there are so many different places you could see in this small country (e.g. It’s smaller than a half of Iceland). Unless you have unlimited time and cash, visiting all these places is impossible at once. It is better to find out which part of Costa Rica would like to go and how to get there.
Puerto Viejo
So here am I in Bocas del Toro province in Panama, next to Costa Rican border. There are transfer options to various destinations in Costa Rica, leaving from Sixaloa/Guabito border. Considering the ongoing peak season in beginning of March, I decided to ignore the crowded luxury resorts in Guanacaste and Puntarenas, and visit the laid-back Caribbean coast, a forgotten part of Costa Rica. I came there on my own changing 3 separate buses (Panama City – Changuinola, Changuinola – Guabito and Sixaloa – Puerto Viejo). On my way back I found a shuttle minibus called Caribe Shuttle that bring me back to Bocas del Toro with organized border transfers. However, the border is only for pedestrians, so you need to cross an old railway bridge, which probably was never in service as there are no railways around. Another transportation option could be flying to Limón and then take a bus / car to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, a major tourist destination at the Caribbean coast in Costa Rica. Due to its proximity, the town is more open to Panamá, than to San Juan, the capital of Costa Rica and most of the tourists here are visiting Puerto Viejo en route to / from Panamá. Even the locals go shopping in Panamá, where is cheaper due to the higher taxes in Costa Rica.
At night, Puerto Viejo becomes a party center, as many party hostels are welcoming American and European backpackers, but not only. I met also South American tourists that were discovering this hidden paradise. There also a lot of bars and restaurants near the beautiful black sand beach Playa Negra. It is located at the entrance to Puerto Viejo and could not be mistaken by its unique volcanic sands and an old rusted barge, once carrying out cacao and bananas, standing today as a lone reminder to the past.
Playa Chiquita
Puerto Viejo is under protection of Costa Rican Maritime Zoning Laws, so there are no any tall buildings, neither international chains (hotel or restaurant). Moreover, it is a gateway to Gandoca Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge, a home to some of the most beautiful scenery in all of Costa Rica. Everything here is very nature-friendly so coming to the Caribbean coast means to forget the amenities in five star beach resorts. I stayed in Playa Chiquita, nearby Puerto Viejo, in the cozy Jungle Green House, surrounded by rainforest and just a short walk to the beach. It rains every night (luckily not in the day), so the mornings are fresh and the best part was to woke up by the sounds of the jungle – in my case, it was by a toucan, hidden in surrounding trees. I learned to left a slightly open window, otherwise I could miss the alarm. Once in Playa Chiquita, it was easy to reach Punta Uva and Manzanillo by rental bike.
Punta Uva
Punta Uva is one of the best beaches in Costa Rica, without doubt. Its coral reefs and beautiful sands stands next to the surrounding rainforest from Gandoca just next to the beach. Palm trees from the coastal rainforest have fallen on the beach and so create stunning sights. However, it is not crowded and the place is calm. There is a river coming from the rainforest and flowing into the Caribbean, so taking a kayak is the best way to explore the nature. For its short distance, they kayak journey pass through coast full of cliffs, caves, lagoon and finally the amazing rainforest. The wildlife there includes monkeys, sloth, river turtles, iguanas, toucans and other colorful birds. My host warned me to look on my feet as poisonous snakes also could appear.
Manzanillo
The coastal road ends in Manzanillo, a small village known for its great surf spot. The beaches here offer waves for all levels, so it is a great place for everyday practicing, even for beginners. In fact, most of the locals do surf in their free time. Not only surfers come here, as more and more divers are visiting Manzanillo, as one of the best diving reefs in Costa Rica. Its proximity with the rainforest boosts also the marine life, so snorkel divers could spot here blue parrot fish, angel fish, sea anemones, urchins, Venus sea fans, shrimps, oysters, sea cucumbers, lobsters and sponges. The whole area is protected under Gandoca Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge, including the land area and the reefs in front of the beaches. It includes nearly 25,000 acres of jungle, marshland, lagoons, reefs, coves and coastline. The refuge is not easy accessible and the best way to explore is getting a guided jungle hike.
Pura Vida
Costa Rica is probably the most stunning country in Central America. Everyone who visited this country would like to return, while many foreigners are living here, either expats or retirees. Sometimes, Costa Rica is called the Switzerland of Central America and there is a strong reason behind it. Tens of thousands Europeans and Americans have chosen Costa Rica for their current home. Many others are coming, as they already bought a property here and only waiting for the retirement day.
All of these people are living the way of life, known as “Pura Vida” or pure life, literally. This phrase is Costa Rica’s unofficial moto which symbolizes the idea of be happy and enjoy the life. It is one of the happies countries in the world by both Gallup and the Happy Planet Index. It is the most common used word here, meaning also hello or goodbye.
Vanesa and Ronald, a couple living here for many years, were my hosts so they helped me to understand the meaning of “Pura Vida”. Ronald explained me why the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica is not as developed as the Pacific coast. It is divided by huge mountains to country’s capital San Jose and historically it took centuries to establish any links. In 19th century, the famous Costa Rican coffee from Central Valley was export to Europe by the Pacific ports, instead from Caribbean coast to the Atlantic. It means tens of thousands kilometers more for the ships, so the government decided to build an ambitious railroad. Mostly Jamaican laborers worked on the project, starting from 1867 until the 1890s, when the construction of the railroad to the Atlantic was finished. Today, their descendants live all around the Caribbean coast, so do Ronald. Beside the railway, nothing has changed so much. Natural economy is still alive here, as it is not a rare someone to exchange bananas for cocoa, so Ronald is growing them. This is how they understand the meaning of “Pura Vida”! Hasta luego, Costa Rica!
Puerto Viejo
So here am I in Bocas del Toro province in Panama, next to Costa Rican border. There are transfer options to various destinations in Costa Rica, leaving from Sixaloa/Guabito border. Considering the ongoing peak season in beginning of March, I decided to ignore the crowded luxury resorts in Guanacaste and Puntarenas, and visit the laid-back Caribbean coast, a forgotten part of Costa Rica. I came there on my own changing 3 separate buses (Panama City – Changuinola, Changuinola – Guabito and Sixaloa – Puerto Viejo). On my way back I found a shuttle minibus called Caribe Shuttle that bring me back to Bocas del Toro with organized border transfers. However, the border is only for pedestrians, so you need to cross an old railway bridge, which probably was never in service as there are no railways around. Another transportation option could be flying to Limón and then take a bus / car to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, a major tourist destination at the Caribbean coast in Costa Rica. Due to its proximity, the town is more open to Panamá, than to San Juan, the capital of Costa Rica and most of the tourists here are visiting Puerto Viejo en route to / from Panamá. Even the locals go shopping in Panamá, where is cheaper due to the higher taxes in Costa Rica.
At night, Puerto Viejo becomes a party center, as many party hostels are welcoming American and European backpackers, but not only. I met also South American tourists that were discovering this hidden paradise. There also a lot of bars and restaurants near the beautiful black sand beach Playa Negra. It is located at the entrance to Puerto Viejo and could not be mistaken by its unique volcanic sands and an old rusted barge, once carrying out cacao and bananas, standing today as a lone reminder to the past.
Playa Chiquita
Puerto Viejo is under protection of Costa Rican Maritime Zoning Laws, so there are no any tall buildings, neither international chains (hotel or restaurant). Moreover, it is a gateway to Gandoca Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge, a home to some of the most beautiful scenery in all of Costa Rica. Everything here is very nature-friendly so coming to the Caribbean coast means to forget the amenities in five star beach resorts. I stayed in Playa Chiquita, nearby Puerto Viejo, in the cozy Jungle Green House, surrounded by rainforest and just a short walk to the beach. It rains every night (luckily not in the day), so the mornings are fresh and the best part was to woke up by the sounds of the jungle – in my case, it was by a toucan, hidden in surrounding trees. I learned to left a slightly open window, otherwise I could miss the alarm. Once in Playa Chiquita, it was easy to reach Punta Uva and Manzanillo by rental bike.
Punta Uva
Punta Uva is one of the best beaches in Costa Rica, without doubt. Its coral reefs and beautiful sands stands next to the surrounding rainforest from Gandoca just next to the beach. Palm trees from the coastal rainforest have fallen on the beach and so create stunning sights. However, it is not crowded and the place is calm. There is a river coming from the rainforest and flowing into the Caribbean, so taking a kayak is the best way to explore the nature. For its short distance, they kayak journey pass through coast full of cliffs, caves, lagoon and finally the amazing rainforest. The wildlife there includes monkeys, sloth, river turtles, iguanas, toucans and other colorful birds. My host warned me to look on my feet as poisonous snakes also could appear.
Manzanillo
The coastal road ends in Manzanillo, a small village known for its great surf spot. The beaches here offer waves for all levels, so it is a great place for everyday practicing, even for beginners. In fact, most of the locals do surf in their free time. Not only surfers come here, as more and more divers are visiting Manzanillo, as one of the best diving reefs in Costa Rica. Its proximity with the rainforest boosts also the marine life, so snorkel divers could spot here blue parrot fish, angel fish, sea anemones, urchins, Venus sea fans, shrimps, oysters, sea cucumbers, lobsters and sponges. The whole area is protected under Gandoca Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge, including the land area and the reefs in front of the beaches. It includes nearly 25,000 acres of jungle, marshland, lagoons, reefs, coves and coastline. The refuge is not easy accessible and the best way to explore is getting a guided jungle hike.
Pura Vida
Costa Rica is probably the most stunning country in Central America. Everyone who visited this country would like to return, while many foreigners are living here, either expats or retirees. Sometimes, Costa Rica is called the Switzerland of Central America and there is a strong reason behind it. Tens of thousands Europeans and Americans have chosen Costa Rica for their current home. Many others are coming, as they already bought a property here and only waiting for the retirement day.
All of these people are living the way of life, known as “Pura Vida” or pure life, literally. This phrase is Costa Rica’s unofficial moto which symbolizes the idea of be happy and enjoy the life. It is one of the happies countries in the world by both Gallup and the Happy Planet Index. It is the most common used word here, meaning also hello or goodbye.
Vanesa and Ronald, a couple living here for many years, were my hosts so they helped me to understand the meaning of “Pura Vida”. Ronald explained me why the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica is not as developed as the Pacific coast. It is divided by huge mountains to country’s capital San Jose and historically it took centuries to establish any links. In 19th century, the famous Costa Rican coffee from Central Valley was export to Europe by the Pacific ports, instead from Caribbean coast to the Atlantic. It means tens of thousands kilometers more for the ships, so the government decided to build an ambitious railroad. Mostly Jamaican laborers worked on the project, starting from 1867 until the 1890s, when the construction of the railroad to the Atlantic was finished. Today, their descendants live all around the Caribbean coast, so do Ronald. Beside the railway, nothing has changed so much. Natural economy is still alive here, as it is not a rare someone to exchange bananas for cocoa, so Ronald is growing them. This is how they understand the meaning of “Pura Vida”! Hasta luego, Costa Rica!
This article was originally published in The Economist's magazine Bulgarian issue No. 17 of April 2016.
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